Friday, December 25, 2015

San Francisco evening scenes - December 2015

While this was potentially just going to honor two of the grandest Baroque-style buildings in San Francisco, it also features a handful of other scenes. Besides the joy of the architectural sites herein, I also note a 2014 memorial honoring soldiers, which can be seen as both very anti-war and very respectful of veterans, with further comments below.....

As a gateway, partly to relatively clearer photos:), we might first pass under the south pier of the Golden Gate Bridge, as a friend of mine and I did last night (Dec. 24)....
A little earlier, though, on Wednesday, Dec. 23, one of the highlights of an impromptu driving tour from another family friend satisfied my curiosity as to a Baroque vision of loveliness I had seen earlier that day. While my two "day" views of what had been a mystery are in the postscript below, here is a little bit of the nighttime glory of St. Ignatius Church, as it rises in conjunction with the University of San Francisco....
[from McAllister and Parker looking southeast]

[both views above are taken from the front of St. Ignatius on Fulton Street]

Shortly after that "Jesuit Baroque", my friend pointed out the (French Baroque) and colorfully lighted City Hall, visible from (20?) blocks away, and then in greater glory up close....

[from McAllister and Polk looking southeast]

The Beaux-Arts inspired Civic Center continues the festive air with performance spaces, such as the Davies Hall for the San Francisco Symphony....
while my friend pointed out something more thoughtful which I would have missed, and just as it calls (all of us?) to more effort, reading these next two photos would take a few seconds more as well.

As she took a break from her driver/guide functions, waiting in her car, I read the kind of poem you might not usually see on war memorials, this one for a monument dedicated on October 10 of last year.

I will insert the poem, by Archibald MacLeish (1892-1982), in my appendix, but basically, it is one which can be seen as very anti-war yet also as respecting all veterans, partly because it notes the work we have to do once they have done theirs.

Its key line is the longest one in the version carved here [see endnote 1], most of which I photographed in two parts. If you read the left side and then read the right portion here, you should get its idea, but again, I hope you will see my postscript for its full text.




This evening, after walking up the wonderfully steep Filbert Street and then steps beyond it to the top of Telegraph Hill - perhaps better known as the Coit Tower park - I had the pleasure of a sunset view to the west, featuring the Russian Hill area to the left and, less prominently below, the piers of the Golden Gate Bridge to the right, the left one and some adjacent cables somewhat visible below, and the right one perhaps very dimly noticeable.... 
As it became darker, I looked again at Coit Tower, opened in 1933 very close to the overlook....
Once I came down from its hilltop and went down Grant Avenue through Chinatown, it was great to see families and others out at the Union Square skating rink next to a symbol which can certainly sum up this write-up....

Endnotes

1. While the second last line in the "Young...Soldiers" version I have inserted reads....

"They say, We leave you our deaths: give them their meaning: give them an end to the war and a true peace: give them a victory that ends the war and a peace afterwards: give them their meaning." .....

This line ends with  the first use of "give them their meaning" on the memorial itself. 



Sources, an acknowledgement and a daytime postcript

Coit Tower - I've noted 1933 as its opening year from a 1983 50th anniversary plaque which I read tonight at the front of the tower.

MacLeish, Archibald - Sources here include https://www.poets.org/poetsorg/poet/archibald-macleish and http://www.poetryfoundation.org/bio/archibald-macleish


St. Ignatius Church was debuted in 1914, as per http://stignatiussf.org/about-us/church-history-tour/
and is also discussed at http://hoodline.com/2015/01/what-is-saint-ignatius-church-1421371182
which, again coincidentally with this writing, notes that the previous St. Ignatius Church was where Davies Symphony Hall is today.

Thanks again to the family friend who took me on a whirlwind ride of a few areas in the northern tier of San Francisco this past Wednesday night, Dec. 23, in which she showed me the awe-inspiring topography of Pacific Heights, the USF campus area including St. Ignatius Church from the outside, the famous "painted ladies" houses on Steiner Street near Grove, Hayes Valley, the Civic Center, the Japantown cultural and commercial center and a few other areas and landmarks.

While she and I had not stayed in close touch prior to this trip, maybe the next "scene" (consumed in the evening at least:)) when we went out to dinner, can speak to the affection between her family and mine....
["Mango Sticky Pudding" at Sweet Lime, a Thai Restaurant at 2100 Sutter St., San Francisco]

I would add my daytime discovery this past Wednesday of St. Ignatius Church from perhaps a mile away, and an urge to see its "Baroque wonderland" up close; here, my pictures are respectively from California and Jordan and then from in front of 11 S. Jordan, with the church in the center of both images....



San Francisco City Hall was completed in December 1915 (coincidentally at this time:)), as per an undated Historic American Buildings Survey report at
https://cdn.loc.gov/master/pnp/habshaer/ca/ca0600/ca0633/data/ca0633data.pdf

A further reference to the City Hall is found at https://books.google.com/books?id=opvy1zGI2EcC&pg=PA264&lpg=PA264&dq=San+Francisco+City+Hall+Baroque&source=bl&ots=POSRsa11vB&sig=D4Wz9onePrqoh-vkAXZxOna8Kow&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNgvW-_ffJAhUI8GMKHQxaBCs4ChDoAQg8MAE#v=onepage&q=San%20Francisco%20City%20Hall%20Baroque&f=false, while the completion date there is given as 1916.

San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center veterans monument - this very recent landmark, known officially as the "Passage of Remembrance", is noted at http://www.sfwmpac.org/veterans-memorial and http://sf.curbed.com/archives/2014/10/10/eight_decades_in_the_making_veterans_memorial_opens_today.php



War Memorial poem - text

[I have not confirmed the wording below is exactly the same as the Civic Center's memorial version, but they are at least very similar to each other.]


THE YOUNG DEAD SOLDIERS DO NOT SPEAK
Nevertheless they are heard in the still houses: who has not heard them?

They have a silence that speaks for them at night and when the clock counts.


They say, We were young. We have died. Remember us.


They say, We have done what we could but until it is finished it is not done.


They say, We have given our lives but until it is finished no one can know what our lives gave.


They say, Our deaths are not ours: they are yours: they will mean what you make them.


They say, Whether our lives and our deaths were for peace and a new hope or for nothing we cannot say: it is you who must say this.


They say, We leave you our deaths: give them their meaning: give them an end to the war and a true peace: give them a victory that ends the war and a peace afterwards: give them their meaning.


We were young, they say. We have died. Remember us.


[source: https://www.loc.gov/teachers/lyrical/poems/docs/young_trans.pdf]




Dates of my photos

City Hall, St. Ignatius Church, Davies Symphony Hall, the war memorial just west of City Hall and that "Sweet Lime" dessert....Weds., Dec. 23, 2015

Coit Tower, the view from its overlook and the Union Square Christmas tree....tonight (Fri., Dec. 25, 2015)


Separately, those "painted ladies" should be visible in many places, I'd bet, including here, if again with the semi-laborious cut and paste step.....
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Painted+Ladies/@37.775964,-122.433261,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1s2578664!2e1!3e10!6s%2F%2Flh4.googleusercontent.com%2Fproxy%2FOEC2Ck_2AZrvFfoonvYq2wfAc8tvnlb7cv7NQfHj_M1-wzONV3uIRP8tCyHroD5oWi3KHizSgd9W-lNAyqPigHNbxwIy%3Dw203-h152!7i2816!8i2112!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x8421d0c06f9e59c5!6m1!1e1

Coming back as before to the "Bridge Area" if very briefly now....

Here, as with the end of 2014, I wanted to keep alive communications on the "Bridge area", at and around Cleveland's abandoned Sidaway Avenue Suspension Bridge.

Shortly, I hope to add a blog covering a story of social and historic preservation as well, but for now, will just note its likely subject - the Garden Valley Neighborhood House - the front of which was built in 1924, and which is located at 71st and Kinsman Avenues....
GVNH in March, 2012

Wednesday, December 23, 2015

San Francisco - first impressions

This past Tuesday (Dec. 22) I arrived for a visit to San Francisco, certainly one of those cities I would go to frequently if time and money afforded. In this writing, I will offer a few sites and thoughts from my first night here. Since 22 is my lucky number, I was fortunate to come, no. 1, and to come on a "22nd"....

As I got ready to leave the airport....
for "the city" [meaning the City and County of San Francisco:)] - as I understand some people say here, the hills of suburban housing nearby, seen dimly below....
seemed to be a likely preview of the famous hill town I was about to see. I think I'll still love one of my favorite hilly cities - Pittsburgh - after this visit, but am glad to check out the fabled beauty I saw here 31 years ago on my last visit.

From the airport, I was about to take the "red line" north through Daly City (noted below and seen near the left center of the map here), to the Powell Street Station downtown....
As I rode on the train, I tried without success to get a picture of the hilly communities along the way, so wish to acknowledge a blog I just found for its pictures of one such hill in Daly City; see that hill, so to speak, in the second picture in the article "Forgotten Hills: La Portezuela" at http://urbanlifesigns.blogspot.com/2013/03/forgotten-hills-la-portezuela.html].

After a good ride on the train, with the horse I rode in on seen here at the Powell Street Station after I got off....

I felt this "west coast mini-New York City" vibe in the station concourse, if, granted, it was much newer than many similar subway spaces in New York....
and then I got a taste of what in San Francisco is sometimes called "Edwardian" style, and which I'm sure some people call "grandeur", with this view of the Flood Building, seen to the right, and "One Powell" to the left....
Before moving on to the wonderful heritage of the Flood Building, which I learned about in its lobby, I would love to research One Powell, but would only say that its sense of early 20th-century business power is joined today by the shelter its currently-closed entrance provides for the homeless, if again vaguely seen here....
The Flood Building, on a brief look at its lobby displays, three of which are seen here, brings together at least the subjects of Gold Rush dreams, disaster survival, film noir and family pride, and, with its standing at such a key corner, probably other themes as well.

It was named by its builder, James L. Flood, a son of James C. Flood (1826-1899), who came to San Francisco at the age of 23 (sounds like a good time to come based on history:)).


Its "Colusa Stone" and other features largely survived the earthquake and fire of 1906, with a recounting of that event in commentary here....

and the building seen here from Market Street along its southern end just after that disaster.....
Over time, its occupants included author Dashiell Hammett, who wrote "The Maltese Falcon" while working there for the Pinkerton Detective Agency. One of the memorials to this literary life in the landmark's lobby is a replica of the sculpture used in the movie of the book.....
The sculpture and other elements of the lobby's exhibit came about at least partly to celebrate a major renovation of the building in the early 90's, when the project coordinator was James "Jimmy" Flood, a grandson of the builder.

After I left the Flood Building, I spent a little time on the Powell Street side of "One Powell", just steps away from the starting point and terminus of the Powell Street cable car; if you look at the lower left side below, you will see a diagonal double line which marks a centerpiece of its charmingly small turntable in this pre-Christmas view from Powell towards Market....

Immediately to the right of this scene, I talked briefly with two of the many low-income people who live in nearby shelters, often faceless parts (for me as well) of the stresses between classes where, unfortunately, SF may be a leader in terms of its gentrification, a more powerful process here than in perhaps any other American city, due very much to the prosperity of Silicon Valley employees not far away, a number of them driving up the cost of housing through their city purchases.

I met Ricky Teague....

a poet originally from Oakland who said he lived nearby in an "SRO" (single-room occupancy) hotel and was out to sell copies of a 2001 book of poems, which he offered to me for $10 and then for $7, while I politely declined....
Shortly thereafter, I met Tony Perez....
who also lived in an SRO, and was selling the edition seen here of a homeless advocacy newspaper - "Street Sheet"....
He spoke to me of being born in Buffalo and coming to California as a 6-year old in 1976, when his family packed up a U-Haul truck which they took cross-country, first landing in Santa Cruz, then Santa Clara, and then ultimately with Tony coming to San Francisco. I did not delve into why they left Buffalo or what transpired in Tony's life to lead him to homelessness, but after his friendly "where's my cheesesteak?" (somewhat common when people hear you live in Philadelphia) we talked briefly.

Around 6:30, I walked past more of the holiday shopping world, and near a few of the many large and small hotels - ranging from deluxe to semi-divey? - in an area close to both Union Square and the heart of downtown, and then came to my reservation destination - the downtown SF lodging location of "Hostelling International" at 312 Mason just north of O'Farrell....

In short, I have had a good time here at 312 Mason based on my first night, and had a great morning of breakfast, conversation and the logistics of small sleeping and other spaces (more later there?), inside of more hotel heritage, as 312 Mason has housed a few short-term hotel spaces, including but not limited to.... the "Hotel Gloster" in 1909 [note the coincidental December date at the upper left of this postcard]....
and the Hotel Virginia in the late 1930's, hyper-advertised here in the left center around the time of an "expo" in SF in 1939....



This blog was completed thanks to a 1.3 billion grant and through the facilities of the Cup and Cake Cafe at Geary and Jordan....
whose location can be cut and pasted below, but seems to almost be exactly halfway between the famous "greeneries" of the Presidio and Golden Gate Park....
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cup+%26+Cake+Cafe/@37.7817153,-122.4568566,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xb503096ca5d1c279

Back for more writing soon hopefully....